By Jennifer Hartley
As one of Canada’s most celebrated science journalists, Bob McDonald is beloved by listeners of CBC Radio’s Quirks & Quarks and widely recognized as the national science commentator for CBC Television and CBC News Network.
Sure, he has been appointed an Officer of the Order of Canada and even has an asteroid named after him, but did you know he’s pretty down to earth? This guy likes to experience terra firma and the open road from the saddle of a motorbike.
A few week ago, Bob and Fifty-Five Plus’s Jennifer Hartley went two-wheeling in the Swiss Alps.
There are idyllic, 360-degree panoramic views and 180-degree hairpin turns through majestic scenic passes over snow-peaked mountaintops with glaciers streaming down. Dark brown wooden homes decorated with bright flowers cling to mountain ridges and pepper vibrant green valleys down below.
Add in chocolate of every kind (no surprise there), mouth-watering raclette and chicken cordon bleu, along with castles, history and wineries (surprise there) and you have a taste of what awaits you in the southern Alps region of Switzerland.
The most exhilarating way to explore it is by motorcycle, but it’s not for the faint of heart. For a motorcycle enthusiast such as CBC’s Bob McDonald, who has been riding for over 50 years, this was a bucket list trip, but even he practised winding turns at home before embarking on the adventure.
Navigating the twisty, narrow mountain roads—where you encounter buses, bicyclists or impatient drivers—requires a skill set beyond that of a beginner rider. As the passenger, I had total confidence, but there were a few white-knuckle moments as we looked into valleys below from passes that at times didn’t have significant guardrails. However, feeling the temperature changes (sometimes a difference of 45 degrees from valley to mountaintop), inhaling fresh alpine breezes and taking in those panoramic views is unbeatable. Instead of looking through windows, you are part of the environment.
A motorcycle voyage requires flexibility and spontaneity. Advance preparations (including choosing restaurants and site visits) don’t always work. Weather conditions in mountains change on a dime, rupturing the best-laid plans. Fortunately, that always leads to new adventures. The Alps link multiple countries, after all. Bad weather? Ride over a pass to another country. (It’s easy to do.) Craving Italian? Head to Italy for lunch.
What started, for us, as an alternative trip is now a recommended motorcycle destination: The Grossglockner Pass, the highest mountain in Austria. There are foot-tunnel paths burrowed into the surrounding mountains at the top and the scenery is spectacular. Just do it.
The majority of our journey was in Switzerland, though, and here are the Swiss mountain passes not to miss.
- Fuorn Pass
- Furka Pass
- Gotthard Pass
- Grimsel Pass
- Operalp Pass
- Simplon Pass
- Susten Pass
Each has its own character and feel. You will be awed.
Hustle and bustle? No thanks.
On our trip, the desire to stay away from the energy of urban areas was strong. It was soothing and soul restoring to be up in the mountains and riding, sometimes all alone on roads. That said, sampling Swiss cities is worthwhile and delightful. Everywhere, there is great parking for motorcycles.
Geneva: In Geneva, the United Nations headquarters impresses with its rows of flags and imposing, gigantic wooden chair in front of the building. The city served as an anchor for John Calvin and Protestantism in Switzerland in the 16th century. Today, the International Museum of the Reformation is outstanding.
Lausanne: On the shores of Lake Geneva, the city of Lausanne is home of the Olympic Museum. The Lavaux Vineyard Terraces area (a UNESCO World Heritage site) is also nearby. Explore them.
Lucerne: Quaint and historical, Lucerne is worth a visit, but it’s very touristy. The murals are stunning and so is the Lindt ice cream.
Montreux. At the foot of the Alps, Montreux is home of a famous jazz festival. Freddie Mercury, Queen, David Bowie, Tchaikovsky, Stravinsky, Charlie Chaplin and others found peace here for good reason. The setting, on Lake Geneva, is beautiful. Visit the Queen museum and the statue of Freddie. You can visit Chaplin’s home as well.
Sleep
The romantic idea of finding untapped guesthouses and local hotels as we rode into villages didn’t pan out for us. Most locations were found on Bookings.com or Expedia.ca. All our hotels were booked online. Truthfully, I hated that, but it was practical, especially when travelling on the fly.
The routine, though, was much more open-ended. It involved waking up, looking at a map and weather forecasts and choosing where to go next. (The next destination was always stunning.) But, whether exorbitantly expensive or more reasonable, the hotels were always perfectly clean.
Favourite sleep spot: Seelisberg
On the mountainside between Lake Uri and Lake Geneva, Hotel Bellevue has cozy apartments with a patio. This is where we discovered the best terrace restaurant with a stunning view. There’s also great hiking. See where Switzerland was born in nearby Rütli.
Spots to stop for a visit
- Town of Sion. Discover four castles, a cathedral and wineries. Perfection.
- Town of Brig. Enjoy the great restaurants and history. Brig is also the perfect jumping-off spot for exploring four passes as well as accessing Zermatt and the Matterhorn. (You have to take a train, since there’s no car traffic.) It’s close to the Aletsch Glacier too.
- Matterhorn. Do the gondola ride up, then walk down to Zermatt. You’ll have 2.5 hours in paradise.
- Town of Davos: Experience the Jakobshorn. Take the gondola up, walk down.
Culture
Unstructured journeying called for googling as we went along and, luckily, there was internet availability. This fact-finding on the way provided context, history (often dating back to Roman times) and fun details about where we were. Montigny had a Rodin exhibit with the Thinker on display, as well as Roman ruins and a museum dedicated to the St. Bernard dog.
There is a long-preserved reverence for history, culture and diversity in Europe. Switzerland has four official languages: German, French, Italian, Romansch.
This trip was most about experiencing the beauty and awe of the mountains. And it delivered in spades. The Swiss Alps are a must on any biker bucket list, and for Bob McDonald and me, it was a journey that surpassed all expectations.
HELPFUL HINTS
- Head up the mountains first thing in the morning to avoid traffic. The hairpins are easier to navigate and the experience is more meaningful and enjoyable.
- It is still possible to cover a lot of terrain in one day. We did all three of the passes in the Brig region in one day. However, we loved them so much we did them twice.
- It is extraordinary, but there is internet service up on the mountains.
- Dress for the weather at the top of the mountains. It can be chilly.
- Bank on costs being double what you pay for the same thing at home. Switzerland is egregiously expensive.
- Pack lightly. It is annoying to repack daily for a constrained space (your motorcycle compartments). If you need to rent your motorcycle, there’s a Moto-Plaisir location about 25 kms from Geneva airport. A staff member can pick you up and the service is fabulous.
- Do not speed. Swiss speed cameras are unforgiving. Travelling just 11 km over the speed limit will get you a $175 fine.
